Pandinus imperator

About Pandinus imperator

The emperor scorpion is one of the largest scorpion species in the world, reaching up to 20 cm in length. Native to the tropical forests and savannahs of West Africa, it is an arachnid (Order Scorpiones) — not an insect. Like all scorpions, it is venomous, but its venom is mild — roughly comparable to a bee sting for most people. It relies primarily on its large, powerful pincers (pedipalps) to subdue prey rather than its stinger.

CITES Appendix II status: Wild collection of P. imperator is restricted under international trade law. Only purchase captive-bred specimens from reputable breeders. Ask for proof of captive-bred origin. Buying wild-caught emperor scorpions contributes to population decline and may be illegal in your jurisdiction.

Emperor scorpions fluoresce a vivid blue-green under ultraviolet light. This is caused by compounds in the hyaline layer of the exoskeleton and is present in all scorpions. It is a genuine phenomenon, not a gimmick — though the biological purpose is still debated.

Enclosure

A 60×30×30 cm glass or plastic enclosure suits a single adult or a small group of 2–3. Floor space matters more than height — these are ground-dwelling burrowers, not climbers.

• Substrate: 10–15 cm of coconut fibre, organic topsoil, or a mix of both — deep enough for burrowing. Keep it damp but not waterlogged
• Hides: cork bark flats, half-logs, or coconut shells. Scorpions are nocturnal and need secure dark retreats during the day
• A shallow water dish is essential — scorpions drink. Use a dish they cannot tip over and check it daily
• Mist the enclosure every 1–2 days to maintain 70–85% humidity

Temperature & lighting

Maintain 24–28°C. A heat mat on one side of the enclosure (never underneath — burrowing scorpions can overheat in deep substrate above an under-tank heater) provides a gentle gradient. Use a thermostat to prevent overheating.

No special lighting is required. Scorpions are nocturnal and bright light causes stress. A UV lamp is fun for occasional observation of their fluorescence but should not be left on continuously.

Feeding

Emperor scorpions are opportunistic predators. Feed 2–3 appropriately sized prey items once or twice a week:

• Crickets, locusts, dubia roaches, and mealworms are all suitable
• Prey should be no larger than the scorpion's body width
• Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours — live crickets can harass a moulting scorpion

Cohabitation & breeding

Emperor scorpions are among the few scorpion species that tolerate communal living. A small group can coexist if introduced simultaneously into a new enclosure with multiple hides. However, cannibalism can still occur — especially if the enclosure is too small, hides are insufficient, or food is scarce. Monitor the group and separate any individual that is being bullied.

Scorpions are viviparous: females give live birth after a gestation of 9–18 months. Newborn scorplings ride on the mother's back for the first 1–2 weeks until their first moult. Do not disturb the mother during this period, and remove other adults to prevent cannibalism of the young.

Handling & temperament

Emperor scorpions are among the most docile scorpion species and can tolerate careful handling. They are slow-moving and generally reluctant to sting, preferring to use their large pincers defensively. That said, any scorpion can sting if it feels threatened — always be calm, gentle, and never grab or restrain the animal.

Let the scorpion walk onto your hand rather than picking it up. Avoid sudden movements and handle over a soft surface in case it falls.

If you get stung

• Clean the area with soap and water
• Apply a cold compress to reduce swelling
• Pain is typically comparable to a bee sting and subsides within a few hours
• Seek medical attention if you experience difficulty breathing, significant swelling beyond the sting site, or any signs of an allergic reaction
• If you have a known allergy to bee/wasp stings, exercise extra caution