Epibolus pulchripes, sometimes sold as the pink leg millipede or fire millipede, is one of the more visually striking millipedes in the hobby. Jet black body with vivid pinkish-red legs. They're smaller than the giant African millipede but still a decent size, and their colour makes them a standout in any collection.
Basic info
E. pulchripes is an East African species belonging to the order Spirobolida. Adults typically reach 10-15 cm in length. They live for around 5-7 years with good care, though exact lifespan data for this species in captivity is limited. Like all millipedes, they're detritivores, feeding on decaying wood, leaf litter, and other rotting plant material.
They're sometimes confused with Epibolus pulchripes variants labelled as "ivory leg" or "orange leg" in the trade. Colour can vary slightly between populations, so you may see some natural variation in leg colour from pinkish to orange-red.
Enclosure
A glass or PVC terrarium works well. For a pair or small group, something around 60x40x40 cm is a reasonable size. They don't need as much space as Archispirostreptus gigas, but they still appreciate room to explore.
Ventilation matters, but you need to balance airflow with humidity retention. Side ventilation with a solid or partially vented lid works better than a full mesh top, which dries the enclosure out too quickly.
Substrate
Same principles as any millipede setup: the substrate is their food as much as their bedding. Use a mix of well-rotted deciduous hardwood (50%), coco coir (30%), and organic topsoil or leaf mould (20%). No softwoods. Pine, cedar, and spruce contain phenols that are toxic.
Depth is important. Aim for at least 10-12 cm. They moult underground and need sufficient depth to bury themselves completely. Layer dried oak and beech leaves thickly on the surface. They'll eat through them steadily.
Mix in calcium: cuttlefish bone fragments, crushed eggshell, or calcium carbonate powder. A piece of cuttlefish bone left on the surface is a good idea too. They'll rasp at it.
Temperature and humidity
Being tropical, they like it warm. Aim for 22-26C. A room that stays above 20C year-round will work for most of the year, but in a British winter you may need supplemental heating. A small heat mat on the side of the enclosure, controlled by a thermostat, does the job without drying things out too much.
Humidity should be 70-80%. Keep the substrate consistently damp but not waterlogged. Mist the enclosure every day or two as needed. The lower layers of substrate should stay moist naturally if you've got enough depth.
Feeding
Rotting hardwood and leaf litter form the staple diet. Supplement with fresh vegetables: cucumber, courgette, butternut squash, and sweet potato all work well. Banana and apple can be offered occasionally but remove them before they rot.
Calcium is non-negotiable. Keep a cuttlefish bone available permanently. After moulting, you'll notice them feeding on it more heavily as they rebuild their exoskeleton.
Handling
E. pulchripes tolerates handling reasonably well, though they're more active than the giant African species. They tend to walk with a bit more purpose, so be ready for them to explore rather than sit still. Support their body fully and let them walk between your hands.
Their defensive secretions deserve a mention. Like many spirobolid millipedes, they produce chemical secretions that can stain your skin brownish and have a noticeable chemical smell. It washes off, but don't touch your eyes or mouth until you've washed your hands. People with sensitive skin may notice mild irritation.
Breeding
Breeding in captivity is possible but slow. Females lay eggs in the substrate, and the young (pedelings) are tiny, pale, and have very few segments. They'll grow slowly, adding segments and legs with each moult. Growth to adult size takes a couple of years.
Sexing can be tricky. Males typically have a pair of modified legs (gonopods) on the seventh body segment, which appear as a gap or indentation where those legs should be. In mature males, this is visible if you turn them over gently and look at the underside. Females have a uniform row of legs without this modification.
Common issues
Most problems come down to husbandry basics. Dehydration from substrate drying out is the most common issue. Failed moults from low humidity or calcium deficiency come second. Grain mites can build up if you overfeed fresh fruit, but they're a nuisance rather than a danger to the millipedes.
If your millipede looks lethargic or is spending an unusual amount of time on the surface rather than burrowing, check your humidity and temperature first. Surface-sitting in a species that prefers to be underground often means conditions below the surface aren't right.
E. pulchripes is a solid choice for anyone who wants a colourful millipede with manageable care requirements. They're not quite as hands-off as A. gigas in terms of size and temperament, but the care is essentially the same, and that colour is hard to beat.