If you've decided to keep millipedes, the next question is which species to start with. There are roughly 12,000 described species of millipede worldwide, but only a handful are commonly available in the UK hobby. Some are genuinely easy to look after. Others are less forgiving. Here's what's actually good for beginners and why.
Archispirostreptus gigas (giant African millipede)
This is the species most people picture when they think of a pet millipede. Adults reach 25-30 cm or more, they're a glossy dark brown or black, and they're remarkably docile. They tolerate handling well, which matters if you're the sort of person who actually wants to interact with your pets rather than just look at them through glass.
A. gigas is a solid beginner choice for several reasons. They're hardy. They cope with slight variations in temperature and humidity better than more sensitive species. Their substrate requirements are standard: rotted hardwood, coco coir, leaf litter, and calcium supplementation. They're also big enough that you can easily see what they're doing and spot problems early.
The downsides: they live 7-10 years, so it's a real commitment. They breed very slowly in captivity, and offspring take years to reach adult size. They also produce benzoquinone defensive secretions that can stain your hands brown and irritate your eyes if you touch your face after handling.
Epibolus pulchripes (fire millipede)
If A. gigas is the sensible estate car, Epibolus pulchripes is the one that actually looks interesting. They're black with bright orange or red legs, and they reach a decent size of 12-15 cm. They're quite active compared to some species, spending a lot of time grazing on the surface rather than staying buried.
Care requirements are similar to A. gigas: standard tropical millipede substrate, 22-26C, 70-80% humidity. They're reasonably hardy and tolerant of the small mistakes that beginners inevitably make while they're learning. They do produce defensive secretions, and the orange staining on your hands is more noticeable than with darker-skinned species.
They breed a bit more readily than A. gigas in captivity, though "readily" is relative when it comes to millipedes. Growth is still slow.
Spirostreptus sp. 1 (Tanzanian black/brown millipede)
Sometimes sold under various common names, these are medium-sized (15-20 cm) East African millipedes that make good beginner species. They're not as visually striking as fire millipedes, being mostly dark brown or black, but they're very easy to care for. Temperature and humidity requirements are standard. They eat the same substrate and leaf litter as other tropical species.
Their main advantage as a beginner species is that they tend to be available at reasonable prices and are forgiving of minor husbandry errors. They're also quite active and visible in the enclosure, which is nice when you're still learning to read your animals' behaviour.
Trigoniulus corallinus (rusty millipede)
This is a smaller species, typically 5-8 cm, with an orange-brown colouration. They're popular not so much as standalone display animals but as clean-up crew in bioactive terrariums. They breed more quickly than the large African species and can establish self-sustaining colonies in the right conditions.
For a beginner who wants something low-effort, T. corallinus works well. They're cheap, they breed, and they're not fussy about conditions as long as the basics (warmth, humidity, decaying plant matter) are met. The trade-off is size. They're too small to handle comfortably, and they're not going to impress visitors the way a 30 cm giant African millipede does.
Narceus gordanus (smoky ghost millipede)
A North American species with a subtle banded grey and pink colouration that's genuinely attractive once you see it in person. Adults reach 10-15 cm. They're interesting because they tolerate cooler temperatures than the African species, doing well at 18-24C. If you keep your house on the cool side and don't want to run a heat mat, this might be a good option.
Care is otherwise standard. Rotted hardwood substrate, leaf litter, calcium, moderate humidity. They're docile and handleable. Availability in the UK can be patchier than the African species, but they do turn up at invert shows and from specialist breeders.
Species to avoid as a first millipede
Not every millipede you see for sale is a good beginner choice. A few to be cautious with:
- Flat-backed millipedes (order Polydesmida): Some species in this group produce hydrogen cyanide as a defensive secretion. That's not a problem if you handle them sensibly and wash your hands, but it's an added consideration for someone just starting out. Some polydesmids are also more sensitive to humidity fluctuations.
- Wild-caught specimens of unknown species: If a seller can't tell you the species, that's a problem. Different millipedes have different substrate preferences, humidity requirements, and temperature tolerances. Buying an unidentified wild-caught animal means guessing at care parameters, which is harder for a beginner to manage.
- Very small species: Tiny millipedes (under 3 cm) are difficult to monitor and easy to lose. They can also escape through ventilation holes that would contain larger species. Fine for experienced keepers, but frustrating for beginners.
General advice
Whichever species you choose, get the substrate right first. That means well-rotted deciduous hardwood (never softwood), proper calcium supplementation, and enough depth for burrowing. A solid substrate is the single biggest factor in long-term millipede health, more than temperature, more than which vegetables you offer.
Buy captive-bred where possible. Wild-caught millipedes may carry nematode parasites and are often stressed from transit. Captive-bred stock adjusts to enclosure life more easily. If you're buying at an invert show, ask the seller what conditions they've been kept in. Most hobby breeders are happy to share their setup details.